Khamma ghani!

Udaipur, also known as the “City of Lakes” is a stunning gem in the heart of Rajasthan. A short trip from major cities like Delhi or Mumbai or the nearby Jaipur, you’ll find a city rich in history, luxury, architecture, and culture.

Udaipur is dotted with seven glittering lakes, the most popular being Lake Pichola and Fateh Sagar Lake. It is also known for being a popular wedding destination due to many luxury hotels and its historic architecture.

November and December in India are very pleasant times to visit, though might be busy due to wedding season.

As a female traveler, I generally felt safe and welcomed in Udaipur. However, always be cautious – we traveled in a group, mostly stuck to city areas, had Hindi speakers, avoided being out too late at night, and opt to take a car over walking at night.

Top Experiences in Udaipur

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City Palace tour

Time: 3 to 4 hours

The most popular destination in Udaipur is City Palace. Built 450 years ago, it was the residence for the rulers of Mewar and has been incredibly well preserved. It showcases unique Indian architecture and a rotating Indian art collection, including depictions of local history. Built on the banks of Lake Pichola, the palace offers expansive views of the lake.

One of my favorite parts was the courtyard, a common feature in Indian homes and palaces that serves as a private gathering place and helps naturally cool the building.

When we visited, though half the palace was shut down due to a luxury wedding teardown, it took a significant amount of time to tour the palace. Be sure to give yourself enough time to explore.

Boat ride to Jagmandir Island Palace

Time: 1 hour

After your self-guided tour of City Palace, you can also take a boat ride on Lake Pichola. The boat ride will take you around the lake, with views of City Palace and a stop at Jagmandir Island. Highly recommend not skipping the boat, as the views are breathtaking.

After purchasing your ticket, there’s a 10 minute walk or shuttle (extra cost) down to the dock. Sunset is the most popular (and most expensive) time, but after seeing how the sunset illuminates the palace and the lake it is well worth it. The boats leave repeatedly, with a last boat going out around sunset (timings dependent on season).

Monsoon Palace

Monsoon Palace was the residence for the ruling family during the monsoon season. From below, you can see its formidable presence upon the mountain – it was built so high that it sits above the clouds.

Vintage car museum and Jeep tour

Time: 1 to 3 hours

A scenic road takes you to a hidden gem nestled in the hills of Udaipur: the Vintage Car Collection at Fateh Vilas, a must stop for car enthusiasts. Behind dramatic Indian heritage doors lies a collection that ranges from Land Rovers to Rolls Royces to an Impala and even an old carriage. My personal favorite was a burgundy behemoth, dubbed the “mafia car.”

This purported quick stop unexpectedly became our favorite experience in Udaipur. Our tour guide (who was also the auto mechanic, receptionist, and more), took us on a private tour of the collection. His depth of knowledge on each car, from its history to how rare it was to the inner workings, gave much color to the tour. If you ask nicely, you may even get to look under the hood or sit inside one.

After viewing the collection, we took the safari tour to the outskirts of Udaipur in an 80 year old Land Rover that was still in perfect working condition. Along the tour we spotted a local village, viewpoints of the river, Monsoon Palace, luxury hotels, a herd of goats, and many other wildlife. We ended with a quick stop to pet the collection owner’s polo horses.

Shopping in Hathipole market

If you’re looking to get some local souvenirs, Hathipole market is an excellent stop. Most shops will open around 11am. Suggested souvenirs include bandhani textiles, Pichawi art, jhooti (traditional footwear), marble and wood carvings, and jewelry.

Negotiation is usually expected, but will be more challenging if you are a foreigner. Especially when coming from countries with stronger currency, be conscious of what the value of bargaining is to you vs. the shopkeeper.

Tip: If you’re the first customer of the day, make sure to buy something. It’s a common superstition that if the first customer makes a purchase, the shopkeeper will have good sales for the day.

Folk dancing at Bagore Ki Haveli

Watch a traditional Rajasthani dance at Bagore Ki Haveli in Udaipur’s Old City.

What and where to eat

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Udaipur has no shortage of rooftop restaurants with a view. Walk into any restaurant and you’re almost guaranteed excellent food, views, and architecture. Indian food also has copious options for vegetarians and vegans.

Nyoto

Modern fusion food restaurant in the heart of the old town with expansive views of Lake Pichola. We ordered the Jeeravan chicken popcorn, kra pao samosa, Nyoto tawa pulao (my favorite bite), Thai omlette, filter coffee mille feuille, and fresh lime soda. The rosette chaat is another popular dish.

Ambrai

Set against the backdrop of a beautiful hotel and views of City Palace, Ambrai restaurant serves elegance with every dish, from traditional dishes to beautiful modern cocktails. We had a vegetarian feast but what I remember most was the fragrant Squirrel Sour. Still wishing we had stolen the glassware.

Rajasthani thali at Dhabology or Navidya

A thali is a platter of a variety of dishes and one of the best ways to try local delicacies. The thali might include dal baati churma, kadhi, ker sangri, bajra roti, and assorted chutneys, yogurt, pickles, and sweets.

Ghati Pe

Well decorated with great portion sizes. We tried dal baati churma here.

O’Brew

Around the corner of Ghati Pe lies O’Brew. If you’re craving an iced coffee, make sure to grab filter coffee from here and sip on it on the spacious balcony. We’re still debating if it was iced coffee or ice cream coffee.

Tip: If you’re concerned about getting sick from food, avoid:

• Street food
• Food that is spicier than you typically eat
• Raw vegetables
• Tap water and ice
• Food/drink prepared with tap water that isn’t boiled
• Most importantly – keep good hygiene by washing your hands before and after every meal and avoid touching money or phones while eating.

Where to stay

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Luxury hotels

• Chunda Palace – If you’re looking for a a venue with historic Indian charm where every room is unique and every surface is covered in artistic detail, look no further than Chunda Palace. We attended a wedding here and the hotel was nothing short of spectacular.
• Taj Lake Palace – Stay in an unbeatable location in the middle of Lake Pichola in the historic residence of the Mewar royal family.
• Leela Palace

More affordable than luxury

• Howard Johnson by Wyndham – We stayed here while sightseeing – while a little further from the city center, it had spacious rooms, an excellent breakfast buffet, much needed AC and great water pressure, and a rooftop infinity pool with expansive views.
• Ramada by Wyndham

How to get around

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General tips

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• Cash is still used frequently in India
• Language – As it’s a popular tourist destination, many people will speak English. However, it might be useful to learn some basic Hindi phrases or have a translator app. Other languages that might be spoken are Marwari and Mewari.
• Mornings start later – most places won’t be open before 10 or 11am.
• Wifi is limited, data is king – get an e-sim through an app like Airalo. Install before your trip with stable wifi.
• Download Whatsapp – many businesses use this for communication
• Local markets are convenient places to pickup bottled water and snacks. Delivery apps like Blinkit and Zomato are popular but require an Indian phone number
• Visa – it’s convenient to travel to India from the US by applying for an e-visa for 30 days of access. All travelers will also have to fill out a digital disembarkation form 72 hours in advance of arrival. If you have OCI and got a new passport after turning 20 or 50, make sure to renew your OCI well in advance of your travel dates.